African Skies: Meanwhile up in Balule

The following is from Kevin's report of his experience up country in greater Kruger, where he volunteered:

I just spent a wonderful two weeks in Paradise Camp in the Olifants West Nature Reserve with Warden Craig Spencer and his helpers, Francois and Stephan. From the moment of getting picked up at the Hoedspruit airport in the Enterprise, along with an intern the Netherlands, I knew I was in for the time of my life. As we drove down dusty roads giraffe, zebra, kudu, and impala showed up. After zipping around a tight uphill turn Paradise Camp hove into view. I had been planning this trip for well over half a year and had looked at all the photos I could of the camp, but nothing quite prepares one for the reality of it.

Stephan showed us to our "chalets"; stilted cabins with a balcony, sliding glass door, and a view of the African bush. A quick peek at the toilet: open air ablutions with a reed screen for privacy. There is nothing like showering in the evening just before the sun sets and the water is still warm and the sky is huge above you!

Supper is cooked on the open bonfire by talented chef Francois. I had plenty to eat. Meat, baked vegies, fresh salad was the staple for supper while breakfast consisted of cereals, tea, coffee, and fruit. We had all the safe drinking water we wanted. If one plans ahead, one can even have rum and coke by the campfire afterward.

That first evening I was at peace, gazing up into the night sky picking out the Milky Way and the Southern Cross (a first for me), puffing on a cigar while listening to African night sounds; lions roaring, a leopard calling, hyenas howling, and honey badgers making a mess of our kitchen. Two evenings I slept outside in my sleeping bag atop the 12 meter game viewing tower. That was cool!

Our days were varied. We participated in the collaring of a female elephant the very first week I was there, quite a rare experience for a volunteer like me. Otherwise, we drove out into the bush daily for data collection, water hole monitoring, alien species removal, and game viewing. Warden Spencer is a wealth of knowledge. This chap, remember, has been a lecturer at Universities in South Africa. I learned so much while I was there, not the least of which is that elephants do not destroy scores trees and do not need to be killed! What a bit of mis-information that is. I learned various animal tracks and animal calls. I learned that conservation is at times tedious. It takes dedication and resolve to work at it year after year.

Conversation around the campfire was delightful and humor is encouraged. There's always plenty to do at camp--firewood collection, dishes to prepare, washing up, and catching up on one's journal.

Craig insisted that we volunteers see beautiful South Africa so one day Stephan took us in his Land Rover named the Ark, to the nearby Drakensberg Mountains. We stopped at beautiful Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, lunched at Grasskop, and relaxed in Pilgrim's Rest. On another day Stephan again drove us this time to the famed Kruger National Park.

I was sad to leave. Craig drove me to the airport and while we were sipping coffee and tea at the lovely tree-shaded departure lounge, I was recounting how extremely fortunate I'd been to spend time in Paradise Camp. It's no five star resort--instead it's an authentic African experience!