Meanwhile up in Balule

The following is from Kevin's report of his experience up country in greater Kruger, where he volunteered:

I just spent a wonderful two weeks in Paradise Camp in the Olifants West Nature Reserve with Warden Craig Spencer and his helpers, Francois and Stephan. From the moment of getting picked up at the Hoedspruit airport in the Enterprise, along with an intern the Netherlands, I knew I was in for the time of my life. As we drove down dusty roads giraffe, zebra, kudu, and impala showed up. After zipping around a tight uphill turn Paradise Camp hove into view. I had been planning this trip for well over half a year and had looked at all the photos I could of the camp, but nothing quite prepares one for the reality of it.

Stephan showed us to our "chalets"; stilted cabins with a balcony, sliding glass door, and a view of the African bush. A quick peek at the toilet: open air ablutions with a reed screen for privacy. There is nothing like showering in the evening just before the sun sets and the water is still warm and the sky is huge above you!

Supper is cooked on the open bonfire by talented chef Francois. I had plenty to eat. Meat, baked vegies, fresh salad was the staple for supper while breakfast consisted of cereals, tea, coffee, and fruit. We had all the safe drinking water we wanted. If one plans ahead, one can even have rum and coke by the campfire afterward.

That first evening I was at peace, gazing up into the night sky picking out the Milky Way and the Southern Cross (a first for me), puffing on a cigar while listening to African night sounds; lions roaring, a leopard calling, hyenas howling, and honey badgers making a mess of our kitchen. Two evenings I slept outside in my sleeping bag atop the 12 meter game viewing tower. That was cool!

Our days were varied. We participated in the collaring of a female elephant the very first week I was there, quite a rare experience for a volunteer like me. Otherwise, we drove out into the bush daily for data collection, water hole monitoring, alien species removal, and game viewing. Warden Spencer is a wealth of knowledge. This chap, remember, has been a lecturer at Universities in South Africa. I learned so much while I was there, not the least of which is that elephants do not destroy scores trees and do not need to be killed!  What a bit of mis-information that is. I learned various animal tracks and animal calls. I learned that conservation is at times tedious. It takes dedication and resolve to work at it year after year.

Conversation around the campfire was delightful and humor is encouraged. There's always plenty to do at camp--firewood collection, dishes to prepare, washing up, and catching up on one's journal.

Craig insisted that we volunteers see beautiful South Africa so one day Stephan took us in his Land Rover named the Ark, to the nearby Drakensberg Mountains. We stopped at beautiful Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, lunched at Grasskop, and relaxed in Pilgrim's Rest. On another day Stephan again drove us this time to the famed Kruger National Park.

I was sad to leave. Craig drove me to the airport and while we were sipping coffee and tea at the lovely tree-shaded departure lounge, I was recounting how extremely fortunate I'd been to spend time in Paradise Camp. It's no five star resort--instead it's an authentic African experience!

Landing at Hoedspruit on South African Airways

Entering camp

Game viewing tower

Pretty nice!

Kudu horns

Stairs up to the tower

Weather station

Female ostrich

Young giraffe

Camp kitchen

The facilities -- full of fresh air and sky!

Looking down from the tower

Stilted chalet

On a game drive (where you always see lots of Africa but not always game)

Cape Buffalo 

Guest bungalow at Letaba, in Kruger

Sunset over the Drakensberg Mountains

Baobab tree

Olifants River, Kruger

Spraying prickly pear, an alien species

Quintessential Africa!

Lion with 'jungle tattoos'

Blyde River Canyon

Fall colors

Hoedspruit Airport

Departure Lounge!

Saying goodbye to Craig

After seeing Kevin's pictures and hearing his stories, I told him I'd be willing to spend one night in Paradise Camp with him!

The 'Elies' at Buffelsdrift

There are some things I learned about the elephants that I don't want to forget.

 I was told they were 'babies' so I wasn't prepared for how huge they were that first dark morning I went to meet them and Joseph, the senior elephant handler who would be instructing me.  The others handlers names were Angelo, Foster, Morgan and Owen.

Firstly, I want to remember their names -- Bulelo, Malaika and Jabari -- and that their mothers were killed by farmers because the elephants were destroying their crops.  All three of them are nine years old and they came to Buffelsdrift at about the age of three.  They loved the water and when their handlers called them out they pretended not to hear.  When the handlers raised their voices, they came out reluctantly. And when the handlers turned their backs, they rushed back into the water again, "just like naughty children at the seaside!" the manager at lodge said when he told me this story.

Secondly, that they have personalities and traits that help make them distinguishable from one another.  For example, when they are taken on walks, they are always led in the same order:  Jabari, the youngest/smallest first because he's the mischievous one. Then Malaika, the female, to separate the males.  And lastly Bulelo, the largest.

I noticed on a walk that Bulelo was resting his trunk on Malaika in front of him. The handler explained with a laugh, "Oh, he's doesn't like to carry his trunk, that one, because he thinks it's too heavy.  He's so lazy!"

Malaika is the patient and quiet one.  And then they would add, "But she is stubborn!"  And the way they said it was like this: "Stub.BORN!"

Elephants are matriarchal so Malaika is the leader.  "Nobody has to teach her how to lead!"  Once when the two males were tussling with each other (something they always seemed to be doing; even from a distance you could hear their tusks knocking) the handlers called, "C'mon, Malaika, sort them out. Sort them out!"  So she ambled over to Jabari and Bulelo and put her trunk between them to separate them.  They backed off and she returned to munching the trees, quietly minding her own business.

Malaika could be identified from the back by a slight discoloration next to her tail. But more obvious was her tendency to stand with one rear foot resting on the other.  "Just like a lady!" Joseph said.

My first morning on duty I helped muck out their stalls -- great huge sheds with cement floors that are covered afresh each morning with fragrant sawdust after the piles of dung have been carted out and the floors hosed down.  In the evening each elephant has a big branch (more like a small tree!) laid on its bed -- a special snack to hold it to morning.

The second morning I watched as they were put through their morning exercises.  Joseph encouraged me to come and witness it so that I could see how challenging it is to handle the 'oliphants'.  But first he examined them for any new cuts or sores that needed spraying with purple antiseptic.  When he saw me standing at some distance he asked me, "Why are you standing over there?!"  I swallowed and said, "Because I'm scared."  Then he scolded me. "Come over here.  No one can EVER run away from an elephant!  Stand close!"  And he handed me the antiseptic bottle.  I said, "What should I do with this?" He said, "Go spray Bulelo.  Foster will show you where."  So I walked up to Bulelo and Foster lifted his ear to show me the new cut.  I sprayed a tentative amount and Foster said, "Come near!  Spray more."  So I did.  I sprayed harder, closer.  Then Bulelo reached back with his trunk and blew on the cut which now had a big smear of purple medicine on it.

Next the elephants followed a routine of commands that was pretty amazing.  (Supposedly they know 45 commands.)  "Lift your left hind foot.  Lift your right front foot.  Shake your head.  Turn to your right.  Turn to your left.  Pick up the baton.  Pass the baton to Jabari. Now pass the baton to Malaika.  Kneel down.  Give the baton to your handler. Walk in a circle.  Give a salute.  Turn around."  When they were done the sun was up and they were eager to start their grazing.  About an hour later they returned to the sawdust pit to eat their prepared breakfast:  a large black bin each of fresh fruit and vegetables mixed with sorghum, a grain mixture, special food pellets and lots of water.  As soon as they got to the place where their feeding bins were Bulelo immediately went toward Malaika's bin and stuck his trunk in. They shooed him on to his own, then explained to me, "He always wants to get something from Malaika's first.  He's so greedy!"  Another handler said, "When there is food, these elephants are NOT FRIENDS!"

I confessed to one of the safari guides later about how I was scared of the elephants and wished I weren't, she said, "You shouldn't feel badly. They are wild animals after all!  It's best to respect them."  She went on to tell me a story.  "Once when I was getting ready to ride my motorbike, Malaika came up close and stood right in front of me. She looked threatening and I knew she could toss me and my bike right up in the air if she wanted to.  So I shouted at her,  'F--- OFF, Malaika!'  Thankfully she backed off.  I was scared, I tell you!"  Then she laughed.  "When I wrote to my sister about the experience, she answered, 'Now you can say the elephants know 46 commands!' "

I wish I'd been there a little longer so that I could have been brave enough to lead them home from where they were grazing, like Joseph asked me to on Friday when he handed me his baton, and said, "Call them for lunch!  C'mon, it's your last day!"    I demurred and said, "They don't know me yet."   After all, I'd just been told by Owen that elephants need to have respect for their handlers.  "If they don't respect you, they will KICK YOU AWAY!"

I did have the experience of going on a ride one afternoon and I can't say I enjoyed it.  They are so huge that, as one guest said to me, "It's like riding a house!"  I was sitting with my legs splayed behind Foster and right on Malaika's spine.  In fact I could feel her spine moving under my own tail bone.  After the 45 minute ride and when we were back at the platform to disembark, I wondered how I was going to get off because my legs were absolutely stiff and unresponsive to my brain telling them to "Move!"  To my embarrassment I had to be 'hauled' off by the handlers and I could hardly stand -- let alone walk! -- for several minutes.  My legs tingled, ached and felt like spaghetti all at the same time.  Joseph laughed. "You have to walk like John Wayne now!"

Malaika leading the way.

With Owen and Foster.

A walk through the Karoo.

Jabari and Bulelo playing Push-me-Pull-you around the dam.

After a drink.

Buffelsdrift guests and the 'Elies' get to know each other.

 

Heading home.

Buffelsdrift Safari Lodge!

Buffelsdrift ("buffalo pass" in Afrikaans) is located outside of Oudtshoorn, a picturesque Afrikaans town in the Klein Karoo ("little desert") region of South Africa, and which lies between two mountain ranges.

The Buffelsdrift Safari Lodge is built next to a dam and is a relatively new enterprise, at about 5000 acres of fenced in land and boasting 22 different wild animal species, including one white rhino, a herd of Cape Buffalo, giraffe, zebra, several kinds of antelope, six hippos, jackals and three orphaned elephants.

 Safari tents across the water.

Two late-afternoon shots of the water and sky.

Lots of aloe around.  In fact much of the terrain reminded me of Arizona.

 Weaverbirds' nests in a tree outside Reception.

The front yard of the safari guides' barracks and where I had a private room and bath.  Mountain views in every direction!  One evening I was invited to sit around the bonfire with the guides who often enjoy their own 'braai' (bar-b-que) if the fire is burning right.  We didn't get our braai that evening but it was an amazing night under the stars, sharing stories and making connections with people I'd just met and who conversed mostly in Afrikaans, translating occasionally for my benefit.  I realized the earth is a huge place and that while the distance between countries is vast, the distance between people is almost nil.

 One of the safari vehicles on an early morning trip.

 On top of a mountain, looking down on the valley below.

Male nyala.  Lots of these around and they are very comfortable around humans, even venturing close to graze on the lawns.

Female nyala.

 "Nossie", the lone white rhino.  She had a mate and they produced a baby, but sadly the baby was killed by the male.  This happens quite a lot. While I was there one of the old male buffalos -- "Dagga boy" -- was suspected in killing one of the two baby buffalo.  Life is hard in the wild and the safari lodge owners/managers have to play a delicate game of letting nature play out, but also protecting their investment...

 Stopping for a drink at the dam.  Elephants can store water in 'pouches' and sometimes use it to feed other animals in the group who are sick or lame and unable to get to water themselves.

Hippos keep a wary eye when the elephants are near. Jubari, the youngest in the group and the most playful, sometimes goes into the water and hits it with his trunk just to have a bit of fun and stir up some excitement among the hippos.

 Time for the 'elies' to return home for the evening.  I was told you could almost set your watch by them showing up at the gate to be led home after their long day which begins with early morning exercises,  foraging and interacting with guests of the lodge and other tourists who come especially for an encounter --- including feeding, photo shoots, long rides through the preserve and watching the 'elies' show off their soccer skills.  Their soccer balls are purposely kept deflated and they go through many.  Malaika, (which means "Angel" in Swahili) is the best at kicking and her handlers joked that she'll soon be ready to join Bafana Bafana, South Africa's national team!   

(Again: a reminder to click on any photo and enjoy a close-up slideshow.)